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Dec 14, 2021 4:53 AM CST
Name: TJOE
Indonesia
Adeniums Cactus and Succulents Composter Container Gardener Fruit Growers Keeper of Koi
Plant Lover: Loves 'em all! Enjoys or suffers hot summers
I will watch closely the red arrows, and to monitor the yellow arrows
Thumb of 2021-12-14/Kaktus/4ad3aa
If they look healthy, do nothing
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Dec 14, 2021 3:24 PM CST
Moderator
Name: Baja
Baja California (Zone 11b)
Cactus and Succulents Seed Starter Xeriscape Container Gardener Hummingbirder Native Plants and Wildflowers
Garden Photography Region: Mexico Plant Identifier Forum moderator Plant Database Moderator Garden Ideas: Level 2
@fiorysgarden I do not recognize the dark spots on your aloe, but they do not look good. Hopefully someone else will chime in here.

Welcome!
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Dec 14, 2021 6:06 PM CST
Name: TJOE
Indonesia
Adeniums Cactus and Succulents Composter Container Gardener Fruit Growers Keeper of Koi
Plant Lover: Loves 'em all! Enjoys or suffers hot summers
Baja_Costero said:@fiorysgarden I do not recognize the dark spots on your aloe, but they do not look good. Hopefully someone else will chime in here.

Welcome!

Yes, monitor closely to see if they turn yellow and rot.
Check whether there are any flying insects nearby.

I have 2 type of succulents that may have something similar, if I don't cut them, will spread and rot to the whole plant, I ever suspected that some insect layed eggs in it, kept some cuttings in a bottle and wait for the larva or insects, but nothing showed up.
The last photo, I still can save and re root it.
Thumb of 2021-12-15/Kaktus/5b3dab
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If they look healthy, do nothing
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Jan 17, 2022 2:47 PM CST
Thread OP
Name: Bob
The Kau Desert, Hawaii (Zone 12a)
Thumb of 2022-01-17/OrchidBob/ca1e0f

Root mealie bugs appear on my plants as the potting media becomes old.
After 2-3 years the media becomes compacted and shrinks away from the sides of the plastic pot.
This is the time to re-pot into fresh media.
When the root ball is solid & strong like this Aloe, I generally will spray the outside of the root ball with 70% rubbing alcohol or 'oil' spray to kill the mealies.
If the root mass is loose I will shake out some of the dirt and inspect for more "mealies".
Typically if the root ball is solid there are no mealies in the middle and I like to re-pot without disturbing the roots.
'Just my personal preference.' I have read many different opinions in this forum and acknowledge that all methods are correct if they 'work for you'.
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Jan 28, 2022 8:27 PM CST
Moderator
Name: Baja
Baja California (Zone 11b)
Cactus and Succulents Seed Starter Xeriscape Container Gardener Hummingbirder Native Plants and Wildflowers
Garden Photography Region: Mexico Plant Identifier Forum moderator Plant Database Moderator Garden Ideas: Level 2
These observations are interesting to me, because I see root mealies some times. They look exactly like the picture and simply unpotting the plant is usually diagnostic for their presence. I have tried to understand when and why they show up, and I would like to share a few observations.

These insects are associated with larger pots in my experience (though not exclusively) and especially the ones that contain a lot of drainage (rock) and go dry regularly, most or all of the time in between watering. They tend to go away during late fall and winter when we get 70% of our rain, which tells me that a good flushing by mother nature can be therapeutic, to the extent that may be possible occasionally where you live.

I refuse to treat all my plants with insecticides, and so it's inevitable that these creatures would show up some of the time, but I try to keep them down to a dull roar, and I was down to an incidence of about 5% the last time I unpotted a whole bunch of plants in a row and extracted the information. To me that is acceptable, and even when the bugs do appear, they can be made to go away after a proper treatment with a systemic (imidacloprid). This is easy to confirm down the road using the eyeball test. You have to do the treatment right (properly saturate the soil with the right concentration of the product) and then it works, essentially all the time, in my experience.

Some unusually good pics (for me) of tiny visitors to my Adenium plant about a year ago ...

Thumb of 2022-01-29/Baja_Costero/ecf81f

These were easily detected and removed once I viewed the leaf undersides. I did a followup treatment with 70% alcohol and they were history.
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Feb 16, 2022 8:36 AM CST
Bulgaria
Every spring and autumn I prefer to use mix of insecticides to prevent any issues in the collection and in May-June - with acaricides. Funcides I use only for seedlings, if needed as in the collection they are not really needed if general humidity is not higher then 40%. if you have higher - I would suggest air dryer to decrease general humidity to 40% and lower.
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Apr 11, 2022 8:06 PM CST
Moderator
Name: Baja
Baja California (Zone 11b)
Cactus and Succulents Seed Starter Xeriscape Container Gardener Hummingbirder Native Plants and Wildflowers
Garden Photography Region: Mexico Plant Identifier Forum moderator Plant Database Moderator Garden Ideas: Level 2
Some information here about the best use of a systemic insecticide (imidacloprid) for pest control... this specifically directed at the use of a soluble product in containers.

The active ingredient in these products (available from various sources and for a long time part of Bayer Advanced Insect Control) is taken up by the plant and confers resistance to certain insects. If it is not taken up by the plant, there will be no effect (except perhaps temporarily in the root zone). You dilute the product in water and apply to the roots when you would normally water. Within a couple of weeks the plant should start poisoning any insects that try to eat it.

Key details:

1. This is not generally a great cure for florid infestations. It works much better in a preventive sense. If you do have a massive bug problem, you need to go in there with a spray bottle and do battle with the bugs first, using soapy water or 70% alcohol as appropriate, to remove and/or kill off the vast majority. Then wait a few days and repeat, before even considering the use of a systemic.

2. This product does not have an immediate effect. It is not taken up by the leaves and generally has no effect until it is taken up by the roots. That process may vary quite a bit in speed from plant to plant, from season to season, and so forth. Your plant needs to be properly awake (not dormant or headed that way) and it needs to have a decent root system. The more awake the plant, the more extensive the roots, the faster the effect. Otherwise you might not see an effect for weeks.

3. The product (or the carrier or both) may fall out of solution or separate when kept in storage, so you need to shake the bottle carefully before you measure anything out. Eyeball the stuff you put in the water. The stuff I use is milky and even at that point. It may settle out even after dilution so when in doubt shake regularly before use.

4. You need to measure and be consistent with the amount of product you use. Follow instructions on the label. I have a bottle of something about 1.5% imidacloprid and I use about 0.5 tbsp per liter. But do your own research, follow the instructions. Too much product may actually give worse results, too little product won't do the job. I recommend writing the final dilution (like the example I just gave) in permanent pen on the outside of the bottle so you will get it right in the future.

5. You need to properly saturate the soil. This is a real issue with succulents, especially the ones that like to grow on the dry side. Their soil may be bone dry at watering time, and that's fine, but bone dry soil is really slow to rehydrate. So water a bit over the whole surface, wait a few minutes, water some more, etc. (the bigger the pot, the more time and passes) until water comes out the bottom. As a general principle for watering succulents, this is good advice, but especially so when you're applying something that will be taken up by the roots.

6. Be aware this is a pesticide and handle it with respect, especially regarding disposal. I have a dedicated squirt bottle I use for systemic treatment and I rinse it carefully after use. I collect the flowthrough from treatment in a saucer and pour it down the drain. Our dog's flea collar contains some ridiculous amount of imidacloprid and it hasn't caused her any grief, but just treat any bioactive material with some caution.

7. Systemic insecticides may be bad for bees or other beneficial insect visitors. Try to avoid treating plants that are flowering or about to flower, if you like bees.

8. Imidacloprid (probably the most widely available product) is light sensitive. You will note it comes in a lightproof bottle. Once you've made your working stock diluted in water, you need to store that bottle in a dark place when you're not actually applying it. I use a low closet upstairs for that purpose but you can also use a lightproof container or put your bottle in a black plastic bag. I don't know what the half-life is in full sun but it's probably on the order of minutes, so it's worth paying attention to this detail. I do not keep any imidacloprid solution longer than a couple of hours (enough time to do the job).

9. There are various factors which may influence the uptake of the product, and therefore its utility in killing bugs. These relate to the water source you are using (is it well water? is it highly alkaline?) and the presence of friendly nutrients. I don't know how much any of this matters, but for my own personal use I acidify our alkaline groundwater to pH 6 and add very dilute nutrients before use. Presumably the conditions that promote healthy root activity would promote uptake of systemic insecticides, but I'm not aware of any specific evidence on the subject.

10. There is a limit on how long the product will continue to work after one application. That may be vastly different for plants in containers vs. plants in the ground. It may be vastly different for very fast growing plants. Generally I would imagine you might want to treat once or twice a year. For plants here that I know will require a preventive treatment, I apply a systemic at the start of spring and the start of fall, roughly.

I hope that helps.
Last edited by Baja_Costero Apr 11, 2022 8:40 PM Icon for preview
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Jun 28, 2022 12:41 PM CST
Name: TK
Ontario, Canada (Zone 6b)
Region: Ukraine Cactus and Succulents Sempervivums Adeniums Bromeliad Tropicals
Aroids Orchids Hibiscus Sedums Container Gardener
Spotted some suspicious patches on my Epiphyllum. Suspecting thrips? The patches have little round dark spots on them that can be scratched off.
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Слава Україні! Slava Ukraini! Glory to Ukraine!
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Jun 29, 2022 12:26 PM CST
Thread OP
Name: Bob
The Kau Desert, Hawaii (Zone 12a)
Thrips are more likely to attack tender new growth rather than hearty established leaves. I know they are hard to spot but generally they appear on flower buds and then inside the blooming flowers. Since this is the season for epiphyllum blooms you should be able to confirm thrip damage on the flowers. Typically the edges of the flower petals will be slightly browned or lighter in color than the rest of the flower. The adult thrips will be actively wandering around inside the flower.
Thrips are a curse and are very difficult to eliminate. Systemic pesticides like Imidacloprid mixed with Avid are a possible solution. The best way to treat for them is to spray the unopened flower buds where they like to hang out.
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Jun 29, 2022 6:01 PM CST
Name: TK
Ontario, Canada (Zone 6b)
Region: Ukraine Cactus and Succulents Sempervivums Adeniums Bromeliad Tropicals
Aroids Orchids Hibiscus Sedums Container Gardener
I haven't seen any adults on it so far. It's a smaller specimen so I did a thorough search ajd didn't find any.
Not sure what the little black dots are though. It didn't have those patches or dots before.
Слава Україні! Slava Ukraini! Glory to Ukraine!
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Jun 29, 2022 10:02 PM CST
Thread OP
Name: Bob
The Kau Desert, Hawaii (Zone 12a)
I have no idea about those little black dots either.
They do not look like any bug or fungus.
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Jun 30, 2022 12:03 PM CST
Name: TK
Ontario, Canada (Zone 6b)
Region: Ukraine Cactus and Succulents Sempervivums Adeniums Bromeliad Tropicals
Aroids Orchids Hibiscus Sedums Container Gardener
I gave it an alcohol spray as a start, given we don't know what it actually is. Hopefully nothing major.
Слава Україні! Slava Ukraini! Glory to Ukraine!
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Aug 8, 2022 4:16 AM CST
Name: Tuilly
US
@Kaktus
Seems simple and effective. I will try too for miners and the white bug. I will see if it's worked for me or not.
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Dec 17, 2022 11:52 PM CST
Name: Deborah
Michigan (Zone 6a)
Community gardens rock!
Cactus and Succulents Garden Photography Cottage Gardener Cut Flowers Dahlias Fruit Growers
Region: Michigan Native Plants and Wildflowers Winter Sowing
Fungus attack?

Hi succulent folks. I wonder if you can help me with what seems to be a fungus attacking one type of my succulents (two plants) next to the small aloes and the sempervivum.
I don't know the names of the tall skinny one and the two being attacked by the fungus, though I've guessed they are Graptosedums (XGraptosedum).

Left photo is October 2022
Right top photo is November
Bottom right is the removed tops of the plants from yesterday
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The photo above also shows the stump after cutting off the top. The fungus appears to be also attacking the tender new growth.

My other succulents don't seem affected by it. I have aeoniums, aloes, crassulas, echeverias, etc. They don't show signs of this fungus that has cropped up.


Thumb of 2022-12-18/dnrevel/41dea6

These are all growing in a basement (about 65 degrees) with LED lights to supplement the dim Michigan winters. I've grown succulents indoors with some good success for several winters. This is the first time I've seen any fungus and evidently just on this one type of succulent.

Any thoughts or recommendations on how to handle this disease?

~ Deb
Fan of Winter Sowing, dahlias, heirloom tomatoes, community gardens, natives & Douglas Tallamy's Homegrown National Park
Last edited by dnrevel Dec 18, 2022 12:02 AM Icon for preview
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Dec 19, 2022 3:06 AM CST
Name: mumu jade
Colombia (Zone 8a)
climbing rose lover, share how to p
I bouht three pots succulents last week. Hope they can grow well. This is the first time for me to plant succulents at home. My friends plant them well, so i want to have a try.
Share tips for planting climbing roses, potted rose and other flowers at times.
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Dec 20, 2022 4:13 PM CST
Moderator
Name: Baja
Baja California (Zone 11b)
Cactus and Succulents Seed Starter Xeriscape Container Gardener Hummingbirder Native Plants and Wildflowers
Garden Photography Region: Mexico Plant Identifier Forum moderator Plant Database Moderator Garden Ideas: Level 2
@dnrevel I do not recognize the problem, but it seems wise to get rid of the affected growth (including the stump if you're seeing problems there).

I have no experience with artificial light or basement growing but my prescription for most fungal problems would generally be the same, starting with lots of light (proximity matters for LED lights, maybe see our thread on artificial light below)

The thread "Artificial light for cacti and other succulents" in Cactus and Succulents forum

Also: try to provide good air flow (maybe put a fan nearby if there isn't much) and mild temps; do not overwater over winter (try to allow the soil to go mostly or fully dry at depth in between watering).

I hope this helps. Smiling
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Dec 20, 2022 8:45 PM CST
Southwest U.S. (Zone 7a)
Hello dnrevel,
I may be way off here, but I've seen boisduval scale look a bit like that on succulents. You might try a spray of 70% isopropyl (=rubbing) alcohol, see if that helps clear it off.
Baja's cultural suggestions are of course excellent also.
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Dec 29, 2022 2:32 PM CST
Name: Deborah
Michigan (Zone 6a)
Community gardens rock!
Cactus and Succulents Garden Photography Cottage Gardener Cut Flowers Dahlias Fruit Growers
Region: Michigan Native Plants and Wildflowers Winter Sowing
I appreciate the suggestions, thanks! I will start with adding a fan and then the other suggestions.
Fan of Winter Sowing, dahlias, heirloom tomatoes, community gardens, natives & Douglas Tallamy's Homegrown National Park
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Aug 13, 2023 8:06 PM CST
Name: TJOE
Indonesia
Adeniums Cactus and Succulents Composter Container Gardener Fruit Growers Keeper of Koi
Plant Lover: Loves 'em all! Enjoys or suffers hot summers
One of my cactus infested by this nasty scale bugs, difficult to eradicate, have applied twice with systemic insecticide, curacron (profenofos), the second time is mixing with dish soap. Will try the third application today. Sighing!
Thumb of 2023-08-14/Kaktus/21c810

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If they look healthy, do nothing
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Aug 13, 2023 9:09 PM CST
Moderator
Name: Baja
Baja California (Zone 11b)
Cactus and Succulents Seed Starter Xeriscape Container Gardener Hummingbirder Native Plants and Wildflowers
Garden Photography Region: Mexico Plant Identifier Forum moderator Plant Database Moderator Garden Ideas: Level 2
I have not had great results treating florid scale infestations with a systemic (imidacloprid) alone. The product works for prevention though, at least if the roots are working and the overall plant is not dormant or something.

It could be that the bugs die but they do not let go, and that's why they don't go away. But I don't see any way you could reasonably get in there and remove them physically.

How are you applying the systemic? To the skin of the plant, or just the soil? Because I would seriously doubt it has any effect until it has been taken up by the plant, and I would imagine that primarily takes place below ground.
Last edited by Baja_Costero Aug 13, 2023 9:09 PM Icon for preview

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