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An more upright/tall species of Pygmy Sundew

As with most of the other Pygmy Sundews, the roots on this plant are extremely sensitive. Division has very low success rate as they do not like to be disturbed.

Generally, gemmae are planted in their final pots, but Pygmy Sundews can be up-potted, by "molding" the soil around the current pot in the new pot, and by transplanting them together with the least amount of disturbance as possible. Because Pygmy Sundews have a taproot, it is best to use a tall pot.

Pygmy Sundews will go dormant if the temperature/daylight changes enough. If going into "deep dormancy", they will die back to their stem and look dead. Deep dormancy has a low survival rate (in cultivation, at least) If going into "light dormancy", they will not die back. Dormancy can lead to them producing gemmae, though it is not required. Dormancy can be easily skipped with no consequences.

Gemmae are little "plantlets" that form on the top of the rosettes of the plant. Shape of the gemmae can vary specie to specie. The gemmae form between papery stipules and collect a lot of tension. In habitat, the gemmae "pop" off the top of the plant from the rain hitting the rosettes. In cultivation, there are many ways to harvest gemmae. Gemmae are ready to harvest when they pop off or are loose when touched. Gemmae are best removed by hand, as other tools may damage the gemmae. Gemmae will not last long but if planted they will quickly grow into another clone of the mother plant.

An more upright/tall species of Pygmy Sundew

As with most of the other Pygmy Sundews, the roots on this plant are extremely sensitive. Division has very low success rate as they do not like to be disturbed.

Generally, gemmae are planted in their final pots, but Pygmy Sundews can be up-potted, by "molding" the soil around the current pot in the new pot, and by transplanting them together with the least amount of disturbance as possible. Because Pygmy Sundews have a taproot, it is best to use a tall pot.

Pygmy Sundews will go dormant if the temperature/daylight changes enough. If going into "deep dormancy", they will die back to their stem and look dead. Deep dormancy has a low survival rate (in cultivation, at least) If going into "light dormancy", they will not die back. Dormancy can lead to them producing gemmae, though it is not required. Dormancy can be easily skipped with no consequences.

Gemmae are little "plantlets" that form on the top of the rosettes of the plant. Shape of the gemmae can vary specie to specie. The gemmae form between papery stipules and collect a lot of tension. In habitat, the gemmae "pop" off the top of the plant from the rain hitting the rosettes. In cultivation, there are many ways to harvest gemmae. Gemmae are ready to harvest when they pop off or are loose when touched. Gemmae are best removed by hand, as other tools may damage the gemmae. Gemmae will not last long but if planted they will quickly grow into another clone of the mother plant.

An more upright/tall species of Pygmy Sundew

As with most of the other Pygmy Sundews, the roots on this plant are extremely sensitive. Division has very low success rate as they do not like to be disturbed.

Generally, gemmae are planted in their final pots, but Pygmy Sundews can be up-potted, by "molding" the soil around the current pot in the new pot, and by transplanting them together with the least amount of disturbance as possible. Because Pygmy Sundews have a taproot, it is best to use a tall pot.

Pygmy Sundews will go dormant if the temperature/daylight changes enough. If going into "deep dormancy", they will die back to their stem and look dead. Deep dormancy has a low survival rate (in cultivation, at least) If going into "light dormancy", they will not die back. Dormancy can lead to them producing gemmae, though it is not required. Dormancy can be easily skipped with no consequences.

Gemmae are little "plantlets" that form on the top of the rosettes of the plant. Shape of the gemmae can vary specie to specie. The gemmae form between papery stipules and collect a lot of tension. In habitat, the gemmae "pop" off the top of the plant from the rain hitting the rosettes. In cultivation, there are many ways to harvest gemmae. Gemmae are ready to harvest when they pop off or are loose when touched. Gemmae are best removed by hand, as other tools may damage the gemmae. Gemmae will not last long but if planted they will quickly grow into another clone of the mother plant.

As with most of the other Pygmy Sundews, the roots on this plant are extremely sensitive. Division has very low success rate as they do not like to be disturbed.

Generally, gemmae are planted in their final pots, but Pygmy Sundews can be up-potted, by "molding" the soil around the current pot in the new pot, and by transplanting them together with the least amount of disturbance as possible. Because Pygmy Sundews have a taproot, it is best to use a tall pot.

Pygmy Sundews will go dormant if the temperature/daylight changes enough. If going into "deep dormancy", they will die back to their stem and look dead. Deep dormancy has a low survival rate (in cultivation, at least) If going into "light dormancy", they will not die back. Dormancy can lead to them producing gemmae, though it is not required. Dormancy can be easily skipped with no consequences.

Gemmae are little "plantlets" that form on the top of the rosettes of the plant. Shape of the gemmae can vary specie to specie. The gemmae form between papery stipules and collect a lot of tension. In habitat, the gemmae "pop" off the top of the plant from the rain hitting the rosettes. In cultivation, there are many ways to harvest gemmae. Gemmae are ready to harvest when they pop off or are loose when touched. Gemmae are best removed by hand, as other tools may damage the gemmae. Gemmae will not last long but if planted they will quickly grow into another clone of the mother plant.

As with most of the other Pygmy Sundews, the roots on this plant are extremely sensitive. Division has very low success rate as they do not like to be disturbed.

Generally, gemmae are planted in their final pots, but Pygmy Sundews can be up-potted, by "molding" the soil around the current pot in the new pot, and by transplanting them together with the least amount of disturbance as possible. Because Pygmy Sundews have a taproot, it is best to use a tall pot.

Pygmy Sundews will go dormant if the temperature/daylight changes enough. If going into "deep dormancy", they will die back to their stem and look dead. Deep dormancy has a low survival rate (in cultivation, at least) If going into "light dormancy", they will not die back. Dormancy can lead to them producing gemmae, though it is not required. Dormancy can be easily skipped with no consequences.

Gemmae are little "plantlets" that form on the top of the rosettes of the plant. Shape of the gemmae can vary specie to specie. The gemmae form between papery stipules and collect a lot of tension. In habitat, the gemmae "pop" off the top of the plant from the rain hitting the rosettes. In cultivation, there are many ways to harvest gemmae. Gemmae are ready to harvest when they pop off or are loose when touched. Gemmae is best removed by hand, as other tools may damage the gemmae. Gemmae will not last long but if planted they will quickly grow to another clone of the mother plant.

Cream/white blooms
As with most of the other Pygmy Sundews, the roots on this plant are extremely sensitive. Division has very low success rate as they do not like to be disturbed.

Generally, gemmae are planted in their final pots, but Pygmy Sundews can be up-potted, by "molding" the soil around the current pot in the new pot, and by transplanting them together with the least amount of disturbance as possible. Because Pygmy Sundews have a taproot, it is best to use a tall pot.

Pygmy Sundews will go dormant if the temperature/daylight changes enough. If going into "deep dormancy", they will die back to their stem and look dead. Deep dormancy has a low survival rate (in cultivation, at least) If going into "light dormancy", they will not die back. Dormancy can lead to them producing gemmae, though it is not required. Dormancy can be easily skipped with no consequences.

Gemmae are little "plantlets" that form on the top of the rosettes of the plant. Shape of the gemmae can vary specie to specie. The gemmae form between papery stipules and collect a lot of tension. In habitat, the gemmae "pop" off the top of the plant from the rain hitting the rosettes. In cultivation, there are many ways to harvest gemmae. Gemmae are ready to harvest when they pop off or are loose when touched. Gemmae is best removed by hand, as other tools may damage the gemmae. Gemmae will not last long but if planted they will quickly grow to another clone of the mother plant.

As with most of the other Pygmy Sundews, the roots on this plant are extremely sensitive. Division has very low success rate as they do not like to be disturbed.

Generally, gemmae are planted in their final pots, but Pygmy Sundews can be up-potted, by "molding" the soil around the current pot in the new pot, and by transplanting them together with the least amount of disturbance as possible. Because Pygmy Sundews have a taproot, it is best to use a tall pot.

Pygmy Sundews will go dormant if the temperature/daylight changes enough. If going into "deep dormancy", they will die back to their stem and look dead. Deep dormancy has a low survival rate (in cultivation, at least) If going into "light dormancy", they will not die back. Dormancy can lead to them producing gemmae, though it is not required. Dormancy can be easily skipped with no consequences.

Gemmae are little "plantlets" that form on the top of the rosettes of the plant. Shape of the gemmae can vary specie to specie. The gemmae form between papery stipules and collect a lot of tension. In habitat, the gemmae "pop" off the top of the plant from the rain hitting the rosettes. In cultivation, there are many ways to harvest gemmae. Gemmae are ready to harvest when they pop off or are loose when touched. Gemmae is best removed by hand, as other tools may damage the gemmae. Gemmae will not last long but if planted they will quickly grow to another clone of the mother plant.

As with most of the other Pygmy Sundews, the roots on this plant are extremely sensitive. Division has very low success rate as they do not like to be disturbed.

Generally, gemmae are planted in their final pots, but Pygmy Sundews can be up-potted, by "molding" the soil around the current pot in the new pot, and by transplanting them together with the least amount of disturbance as possible. Because Pygmy Sundews have a taproot, it is best to use a tall pot.

Pygmy Sundews will go dormant if the temperature/daylight changes enough. If going into "deep dormancy", they will die back to their stem and look dead. Deep dormancy has a low survival rate (in cultivation, at least) If going into "light dormancy", they will not die back. Dormancy can lead to them producing gemmae, though it is not required. Dormancy can be easily skipped with no consequences.

Gemmae are little "plantlets" that form on the top of the rosettes of the plant. Shape of the gemmae can vary specie to specie. The gemmae form between papery stipules and collect a lot of tension. In habitat, the gemmae "pop" off the top of the plant from the rain hitting the rosettes. In cultivation, there are many ways to harvest gemmae. Gemmae are ready to harvest when they pop off or are loose when touched. Gemmae is best removed by hand, as other tools may damage the gemmae. Gemmae will not last long but if planted they will quickly grow to another clone of the mother plant.

As with most of the other Pygmy Sundews, the roots on this plant are extremely sensitive. Division has very low success rate as they do not like to be disturbed.

Generally, gemmae are planted in their final pots, but Pygmy Sundews can be up-potted, by "molding" the soil around the current pot in the new pot, and by transplanting them together with the least amount of disturbance as possible. Because Pygmy Sundews have a taproot, it is best to use a tall pot.

Pygmy Sundews will go dormant if the temperature/daylight changes enough. If going into "deep dormancy", they will die back to their stem and look dead. Deep dormancy has a low survival rate (in cultivation, at least) If going into "light dormancy", they will not die back. Dormancy can lead to them producing gemmae, though it is not required. Dormancy can be easily skipped with no consequences.

Gemmae are little "plantlets" that form on the top of the rosettes of the plant. Shape of the gemmae can vary specie to specie. The gemmae form between papery stipules and collect a lot of tension. In habitat, the gemmae "pop" off the top of the plant from the rain hitting the rosettes. In cultivation, there are many ways to harvest gemmae. Gemmae are ready to harvest when they pop off or are loose when touched. Gemmae is best removed by hand, as other tools may damage the gemmae. Gemmae will not last long but if planted they will quickly grow to another clone of the mother plant.

As with most of the other Pygmy Sundews, the roots on this plant are extremely sensitive. Division has very low success rate as they do not like to be disturbed.

Generally, gemmae are planted in their final pots, but Pygmy Sundews can be up-potted, by "molding" the soil around the current pot in the new pot, and by transplanting them together with the least amount of disturbance as possible. Because Pygmy Sundews have a taproot, it is best to use a tall pot.

As with most of the other Pygmy Sundews, the roots on this plant are extremely sensitive. Division has very low success rate as they do not like to be disturbed.

Generally, gemmae are planted in their final pots, but Pygmy Sundews can be up-potted, by "molding" the soil around the current pot in the new pot, and by transplanting them together with the least amount of disturbance as possible. Because Pygmy Sundews have a taproot, it is best to use a tall pot.

I've seen this plant growing wild in Inner Mongolia. I saw large colonies of them growing between, next to, and on rock formations in the middle of meadows/prairies.

This variety has been incorrectly called 'Hans':
When these plants used to be propagated, the name, Tina, washed off. The only thing left was on the back, which was Hans, Hans Luhrs, who is the person who originally grew 'Tina'.

Cephalotus 'Kai's Error'
Seedling of Cephalotus 'Eden Black' x self
This variety fails to produce traps, occasionally produces small/deformed traps.

Grown by Kai Becker.
Originally called "Eden's Child Clone 3" and "Error", clones of this plant are sometimes passed around incorrectly with those names.

Sedum spathulifolium subsp. yosemitense

As the name suggests, this subsp. comes from Yosemite. The leaves on this rosette are dark green and glossy, they emerge light lime green and fade to red/orange leaves. The stolons/stems are bright red.

Naked Broomrape, Orobanche uniflora, is a woodland parasitic plant. It usually feeds off species of Sedum, though not always.

The grapes are very juicy and are also extremely sweet. The skin seems to be quite thin. They have a slight "undertone" of cotton candy. They are not very sour, if at all.

Sedum anglicum Suzie Q is a variegated variety of Sedum anglicum.

Easiest way to differentiate the Crassula Little Missy and Sedum Suzie Q is by leaf shape:
-> Little Missy usually grows two leaves per node, whereas Suzie Q generally grows in rosette shapes (sometimes will also make 2 leaves per node, but this usually doesn't happen a lot)
-> Little Missy's leaves are much thinner, and "triangle" like, more acute, whereas Suzie Q's leaves are chubbier, slightly more elongated, thicker, and rounder.
-> Suzie Q is much more unstable than Little Missy, so generally, when looking at large colonies of Suzie Q, you may find many "variations", unless the specimen is kept very well trimmed and cut. Some examples are half moon, albino, reverted, reverted/variegated etc. Little Missy is generally more stable, and rarely has fully albino leaves, but occasionally puts out reverted stems.

Do note that because of the unstable-ness of these 2 varieties, it is best to remove reverted stems or rosettes from specimens as they grow to make sure the reverted ones do not take over. Albino rosettes/stems are technically "parasites" because they do not make their own food, they survive only from taking nutrients from the parts of the plant that have chlorophyll, so, it is also best to remove those, unless you like that look of no chlorophyll.

Sedum Little Missy, which is actually Crassula pellucida subsp. marginalis 'Petite Bicolor', is a crassula. This crassula/formally sedum is NOT hardy.

Easiest way to differentiate Crassula Little Missy and Sedum Suzie Q is by leaf shape:
-> Little Missy usually grows two leaves per node, whereas Suzie Q generally grows in rosette shapes (sometimes will also make 2 leaves per node, but this usually doesn't happen a lot)
-> Little Missy's leaves are much thinner, and "triangle" like, more acute, whereas Suzie Q's leaves are chubbier, slightly more elongated, thicker, and rounder.
-> Suzie Q is much more unstable than Little Missy, so generally, when looking at large colonies of Suzie Q, you may find many "variations", unless the specimen is kept very well trimmed and cut. Some examples are half moon, albino, reverted, reverted/variegated etc. Little Missy is generally more stable, and rarely has fully albino leaves, but occasionally puts out reverted stems.

Do note that because of the unstable-ness of these 2 varieties, it is best to remove reverted stems or rosettes from specimens as they grow to make sure the reverted ones do not take over. Albino rosettes/stems are technically "parasites" because they do not make their own food, they survive only from taking nutrients from the parts of the plant that have chlorophyll, so, it is also best to remove those, unless you like that look of no chlorophyll.

This variety performs quite well in my Zone 7A/6B garden. Every year in late fall it dies back to mush, but keeps some leaves at the bottom and then dies back to stumps in winter. It blooms prolifically every year, from early summer, starting with a big wave of blooms, and consistently showing off until the first frosts. It seems to attract many bees and bumblebees, but not so much as attracting butterflies. This plant is really tidy and stays as a round clump, but it occasionally needs staking after a big rain when the leaves/blooms are weighed down. I have needed to stake it because, once it gets weighed down by rain, it doesn't really pop back up to the upright position.